25 Jun 2010

So what do “Scrod” and “Replacement Windows” have in common?

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Scrod is a small piece of white fish, often from a Cod, but not always, and is what’s called “Marketing Speak”. Replacement Windows are windows that are really not full replacements for your old windows. It is also a “Marketing Term” that leads you to believe that you are getting a whole new window for your house. But, they aren’t really new windows, just as “Scrod” isn’t always really a small piece of Cod fish. Both terms allure you in to thinking you’re getting a free lunch!

In reality, there are three kinds of windows out there when you’re going to retro-fit a building or house – new construction windows, replacement windows, and sash kits are the three types.

A new construction window goes into an opening that doesn’t have any windows in it. There is a clean opening in the building that is prepared for a window. It doesn’t have any old frames in it or anything, just the wood framing to receive a window. This is the best choice, and is often referred to as a “full tare out”. The new windows are installed basically the same way as when the house was being built! The siding, trim and old window are all out of the way. The new window is anchored, insulated, caulked, etc. and the siding and trim are replaced.

A replacement window is a hybrid. They come in many different materials – wood, aluminum, vinyl and even fiberglass. In this scenario, the old window-frame is left in place. The “guts” are removed first. The new window, which is about as thick as the old frame, is put in to the hole, screwed in on four sides, maybe insulated and caulked, and it’s done. There is a lot less labor and material involved, yet your potential frame problems are not solved, nor is the original insulation around the frame usually inspected. Another point to consider is that you get way less light in the building after using this type of replacement methodology.

Sash kits, which we’ve covered before, are a great alternative to replacement windows or new construction windows in some instances. For the most part, the original frame is left intact. The old “sash” is removed, the tracks are taken out, and new tracks are applied. The new sash is set in the tracks, and it’s over. Way less labor and materials are used, thereby passing on a lot less cost.

While the industry keeps changing, one thing is for sure, replacement window deals can be fishy. Seriously, you get less light, less new material and less reliability in the long run.

05 May 2010

My Name is Low-E and I’m Here to Stay

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So what is this Low-E glass thing all about? Let’s break it down now. Low means “little” nor “no”. E stands for “emissivity”. Emissivity is the ability of something, in this case glass, to emit energy. I know, it sounds counter intuitive, and it kind of is. You see, it depends on which side of the glass you’re on. The emissivity is the amount of energy that is absorbed and emitted (later). So, this glass is going to absorb low amounts and emit low amounts later.

Here’s an even more confusing definition:

“Low-emittance (Low-E) coating are microscopically thin, virtually invisible, metal or metallic oxide layers deposited on a window or skylight glazing surface primarily to reduce the U-factor by suppressing radiative heat flow.” – http://www.efficientwindows.org/lowe.cfm

Again, think of the sun shining from outside of the window. The heat from the sun gets reflected by the metallic coating on the interlayer of the glass.  In fact, Low-E glass targets infrared light, as that is what seemingly creates most of the heat in a building. It not only blocks radiant energy (light) from coming in, but it blocks energy from leaving the building.

05 Mar 2010

(Replacement Windows) To Sash or Not To Sash

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A lot of people and websites will say that there are condensation patterns to consider and curtains moving when the wind blows, and that is the best way to determine when to gut the old window. There is no divining rod. When deciding on which type of replacement window you want, you need to know that there are two main concepts: Sash Window Replacement Kits and Full Replacement Windows. Both are almost equals when it comes to specifications and what not. I mean, let’s just examine what you are doing here: re-building the inside of the window from inside the house or really replacing the window.
Sash replacement kits are when you replace the guts of the window – just the sash, the sides and the parts that make the window go up and down.  See this simple window diagram for an overview of a typical double hung window. Basically, the sash is the interior part of the window minus the frame. Most people consider sash kits to be a less expensive alternative, and that would be why they are chosen in most cases. Another reason to do just the sash area is that you would like to preserve the old frames, especially on the exterior.
Replacing  just the sash is a good solution with some limitations. The reason why it can be a good solution is that it allows you to save some time, resources, and can offer a better return on investment. Another purpose of replacing the sash section of the window is because you preserve the original millwork.  One limitation in this scenario is that the old frame stays in place. It is important to remember that most of the air leakage from a window comes from things other than the glass. So, if you have leaky frames, then you’re probably not going to save money on your heating bill by using a sash kit. Glass itself does let heat out of your house, yet the leading theorists believe that air loss is where heat loss comes from. Either way, sash kits can have double pane glass with argon or other insulating gas.
Another key determining factor of when to replace just the sash is the physical or aesthetic desires you have. If you want to change the window shape, size, or position, then obviously a sash kit is out because the original frame would probably need to be altered in order to accommodate  such dramatic changes.
It is most people’s opinion that replacing the entire window, frame and all, is the best solution. This way, you get the best warranty, looks, and performance from your new windows.
04 Mar 2010

Security Windows Come in Various Configurations

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Many of the security windows we supply are made to order.  This type of window is often built to particular specifications, and they come in many different shapes and sizes.  Here are some general specifications:

Components which distinguish a security window from a standard window:

  • Multi-Chamber frame with steel inlays and A 3 burglar proof security glass
  • The technology of the Multi-Chamber System ensures maximum stability
  • Minimum 7 internal security locks. Even secured in the vent position (tilt).
  • Lockable handle
  • Drill protection
  • Installed with hardened steel bolts, amount of fasteners calculated per security level.
  • Completely foamed in with high grade Polyurethane Foam for added security
  • All together a secure envelope, from jamb to jamb.

Specifications for the Security Glass are:

Level A Security – ideal for private homes, businesses, vacation homes and homes on golf courses. All of the above described security components for the frame

Security Glass tested to DIN 52290 A specifications (The window has to withstand the impact of a 9 pound steel ball, dropped on the window from the height of 30 feet!)

Level B Security – ideal for homes of people with a high security risk, computer labs, energy centers, jails, police, detox centers, clinics, art galleries, museums, jewelry stores, banks and any other situation where heightened protection is needed.

Same frame as Level A
Security Glass tested to DIN 52290 B specifications (The window has to withstand at least 70 hits of a sharp and machine driven 4,5 pound axe!)

Level C Security – ideal where Bullet Resistant windows are needed

Din 52290 C tested for caliber from 9mm to .44 magnum.
Bulletproof levels C 1 through C 3 can only be ordered with steel reinforced aluminum frames.

03 Mar 2010

Wood Casement Window

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There is a new generation of wood casement windows, now available with frame and sashes in extruded aluminum exterior cladding for long-lasting durability. Exterior cladding takes the exact shape of the wood structure to ensure great tightness and perfect insulation. Or, these windows can be made without a cladding. These windows come in four species of wood: Eastern White Pine, Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, or there are other styles in Mahogany.

Some typical Specifications are below. These are not exact and are simply indicative specifications.

Natural and Aluminum Clad

Standard:
• Insulated glass (I.G.) 3/4″ (19 mm)
• ThermalEdgeTM bronze spacer bar
• 4 9/16″ (116 mm) frame depth
• Finger jointed pine head and jambs, solid pine sill, all preservative treated
• Double arm action (roto gear) E-Gard finish
• Coppertone hardware and screen surround
• Folding handle
• Multi-point lock
• Choice of 10 extruded aluminum cladding colors

Options:
• Custom sizes available
• Choice of three different species of wood: eastern white pine, western red cedar or clear Douglas fir
• Interior finish: treated natural wood or latex primed
• Exterior finish: treated natural wood, latex primed or extruded aluminum clad
• Choice of 15 extruded aluminum cladding colors
• Exterior moulding in natural wood or extruded aluminum
• Flat casing 3 1/2″ (89 mm) or 5 1/2″ (140 mm) in natural wood or extruded aluminum
• Exterior flush moulding in extruded aluminum with nailing fin
• Sill extension
• Interior jamb extension available factory installed or loose
• Hardware finish: white, coppertone, brushed chrome, oil rubbed bronze, bright brass or antique brass
• Head or seat board for bay and bow window
- Extira plywood finish
- Pine finish
- White formica finish # 949
- Cedar finish
- Clear Douglas fir
• Screen frame finish: white, coppertone or natural wood
• Historic sill

Grilles options:
• Rectangular removable (natural wood or clad)
• Georgian removable (natural wood)
• True divided lite (natural wood or clad)
• Simulated divided lite (natural wood or clad, with or without spacer bar) 5/8″ (16 mm), 7/8″ (22 mm) or 1 1/8″ (29 mm)
• Between glass: GBG (white aluminum georgian)
• Others available on request

Glazing options:
• Low-E Argon gas
• Obscure (frosted)
• Tempered (security glass)
• Others available on request (bronze or grey glass)
• Triple-glazed glass